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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.